LINT PROBLEMS IN THE WASHING MACHINE

APPLIANCE E.M.T.

LINT PROBLEMS.

LINT IS SMALL FIBERS OF FABRIC THAT HAVE BROKEN OFF DURING WEAR OR LAUNDERING.  IT IS EASILY BRUSHED AWAY FROM THE FABRIC.  SOME LINT WILL ALWAYS BE CREATED BY ANY WASHER AND FLUSHED DOWN THE DRAIN.  EXCESSIVE LINTING IS USUALLY DUE TO REASONS OTHER THAN THE WASHER DESIGN OR MECHANICAL MALFUNCTION. CAUSES:

1.	IMPROPER SORTING
	Washing lint-givers (terry cloth, towels) with lint catchers (corduroy, velveteen, most manufactured fibers). -Separate lint-givers from lint-catchers.

2.

INCORRECT AMOUNT OF DETERGENT.

A full capful or scoopful of detergent in the washer provides the most benefit in holding lint and soil in suspension. - The amount of detergent used is determined by:      a. The size of the load;      b. Degree of soil;      c. Water hardness.                         Water Hardness Chart                                Rating                 Grains/Gallon                 Parts/Million Soft                      0-3 Grains                      0-59 Average               4-9 Grains                      60-119 Hard                    10-13 Grains                  120-179 Very Hard            14 Grains and up           180 and up To determine water hardness, use a Water Hardness Test Kit or contact the local water utility or county extension office. - Detergent manufacturer's recommendations are for washing a "normal" load.  More detergent should be used if:      a. The size of the load is extra large; or      b. The degree of soil is heavier than "average"; or      c. The water is harder than 10 grains per gallon. - Similarly, less than the recommended amount of detergent may be used (1/2 capful or scoop) if:      a. A small load is being washed; or      b. The load is very lightly soiled; or      c. A partial fill is selected; or      d. The water is soft (0-5 grains). - If a packaged water conditioner is needed, use the following recommendation. Top loading - use 1/3 to 1/2 cup with detergent Front loading - use 2 tablespoons to 1/8 cup with detergent.

3.	OVERLOADING.
	- Top-loading washers:  Place dry, unfolded clothes loosely in the tub to the top row of holes for a maximum load. - Front-loading washers:  The tub can be loaded completely full, but not packed tightly.

4.	USING A WATER-SAVER WASHER.
	Colored permanent press and knits may attract lint from water used in previous loads. - Start with a fresh fill for these loads and use a Regular Cycle if saving the wash water.

5.	MISTAKEN FOR LINT: RESIDUE.
	A white substance left on the clothes at the end of the wash cycle.  It is NOT EASILY BRUSHED OFF and over time, colors may dull.

6.	MISTAKEN FOR LINT: PILLING.
	Manufactured fibers such as polyester, acrylic, or blends of these fibers have a natural tendency to "pill" due to abrasion from normal wear.  When a fiber breaks, it simply balls up on the fabric surface.  This is characteristic of these fibers, and is not the fault of the washer or dryer.  Lint can become enmeshed in the little balls of fiber making the pills appear more obvious.

FABRIC DAMAGE AND CLOTHES TEARING

Fabric Damage and Clothes Tearing

CAUSES:

1.	AGE AND NORMAL WEAR.
	- Inspect all clothing before placing in washer. - Use a delicate or hand washable cycle with appropriate items. - Hand wash items in a sink or wash tub that could be damaged by the washer.

2.

CHEMICAL DAMAGE.

Contact with chlorine bleach, battery acid, acne medication, solutions used by hairdressers or household cleaners containing bleach, etc. can cause tears, holes or yellow discoloration.  Edges around the holes will be very weak and tear easily. Use an ultraviolet light to aid in identifying damage.  Damaged areas will appear blackened or dark under the light.  Hold light about 24 inches from item.  (Terry cloth is not suitable for testing) - Use the proper amount of chlorine bleach stated on the back of the bottle.  - Use a bleach dispenser if available or dilute one cup bleach in four cups water and add the tub when agitation starts. - Avoid wiping up bleach spills with laundry. - Avoid contact of laundry items with skin medication containing benzoyl peroxide.  After using the product, wash hands with soap and water and dry hands with paper towels.

3.	FAILURE TO MEND RIPS AND TEARS BEFORE LAUNDERING.
	- Any rips or tears need to be mended before washing or the laundering process may make them larger.

4.

FRAYING.

Fraying occurs from abrasion during normal wear around the edges of towels, pillow cases, and on collar tips and cuffs, etc.  For example, the collar tip rubbing against the shirt while it is being worn. - Don't overload.  Clothes must circulate freely in the tub.  Permanent press loads should be smaller than regular loads. - Sort carefully.  Don't wash and dry heavy, abrasive articles, such as towels, jeans, or sweatshirts with permanent press or delicate items. - Avoid overdrying.  This may cause abrasion of shirt collars and cuffs.  Remove shirts from dryer as soon as they are dry.

5.	INSECTS, MICE, OR PETS.
	Crickets, silverfish, and moths may eat fabric, causing holes of varying size.  Pets may use their claws to cause damage. - Look for insects on the clothing.  Consumers may need to use moth balls or an alternative storage area to protect clothing.

6.	POOR CONSTRUCTION.
	- Look for seams which are not completely finished off or for any loose threads. - Some garments are made of lower quality fabrics and threads. - Check "second" or outlet store purchases carefully for defects.

7.

SNAGGING/TINY HOLES.

Cotton/Polyester knits snag very easily because they are a series of loops.  Sharp or rough objects can catch one or more loops causing a snag.  This may occur in the wash tub if an item is washed with other items having zippers or hooks.  Some snags may be manufacturing defects unnoticed at the time of purchase.  However most snagging occurs during normal wear and use. Terry cloth has small loops of thread on the surface, so it snags easily during normal use by rough towel bars, laundry hampers, jewelry, hair brushes, etc. - Avoid washing any rough objects with items which may snag.  Close all zippers and fasten hooks and eyes. - Don't overload.  Match the water level to the size of the load. - Check washer tub, agitator, or door for rough spots, etc., with a nylon panty hose.  Any rough spots will snag the nylons and identify a potential snag.APPLIANCE E.M.T.

Do you think this voids the warranty? Very funny.

Click on the youtube link below and let me know if you think this voids the washer's warranty. Very funny, especially as a guy who has wanted to actually do this on more than one occasion.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=364dzVsBs2o

Baking problems and causes

If you have followed the instructions closely, and still get poor results, try the following:

If your cake is uneven:
The pans may be touching each other or the oven walls.
Batter might be uneven in the pans.
The oven temperature might be uneven (not preheated long enough).
The oven might not be level.

If your cake is high in the middle or cracked:
Your temperature may be too high.
You may be over mixing the batter.
You may be using too much flour.
Pans may be touching each other or the oven walls.
You may have used dark pans.
The pan may be too small.

If your cake falls:
You may be using too much shortening or sugar.
You may be using too much or too little liquid in the batter.
You may have the temperature too low.
You may be using old or too little baking powder.
Your pan may be too small.
The oven door may be opened too frequently.
It may not be baked sufficiently.

If your cake is not done in the center:
The temperature may be too high.
The pan may be too small.
The baking time may be too short.
The pan might not be centered in the oven.

If the cakes, cookies, biscuits are too brown on top or bottom:
Oven might not be preheated.
The pans might be touching each other or the oven walls.
You may be using glass, darkened, warped, or dull finish metal pans.
The rack position may be too high or too low.
You may be using aluminum foil incorrectly.
The oven temperature may be too high.

If you experience excessive shrinkage:
You may be using too little or old baking powder.
You may be over mixing.
Your pan may be too large.
Your oven temperature may be too high.
Your baking time may be too long.

If your pies don't brown:
You may be using the wrong rack position.
You may be using shiny metal pans.
The temperature may be set too low.

Kitchen oil fire!!!

POOR BAKING

There are three principles that cook food.

The first is conduction. The hot air around the food cooks though conduction, or touch from particle to particle.

The second is radiation. The hot metal in the oven gives off infrared radiation and cooks through that energy. (That is why cookies around the corners of a cookie pan are more done, there is more infrared radiation coming off the sides of the pan.)

The third is convection. Convection is the transfer of energy by movement, which happens when the hot air is moved over the food with a fan.

Several things cause poor baking results in an oven.

1. The oven isn't preheated.

Preheating is necessary for good even heat, and cooking.
To preheat, set the unit to the desired temperature. Wait 15 minutes before placing food in the oven. Many ovens beep after six minutes to indicate that they are preheated. Don't believe the beep. It takes a solid 15 minutes before the oven is really preheated.

2. Poor air circulation around food.

Avoid placing too many pans on the racks. Don't cover an entire rack or the bottom of the oven with aluminum foil. A small square of foil can be used to catch spills on the rack below.

3. Incorrect pan placement on the racks.

If baking on more than one rack, place the pans so that they are not directly over each other, except when baking cookies using your oven's convection bake feature.

Allow a couple of inches around each pan, and a couple of inches from the oven walls.

4. Incorrect rack position.

If a food is cooked too close to the roof of the oven, it may brown too much on top.
If baking on a single rack, center so the food is being cooked in the middle of the oven.
If food is cooked too close to the bottom of the oven, it may brown too much on the bottom.

5. Incorrect Pan finish.

Dark, dull pans absorb heat which results in darker browning. Shiny pans reflect more heat which results in lighter browning.

Shiny pans are recommended for cakes and cookies. Dark pans are recommended for pies and breads. If used for cakes or cookies, lower the oven temperature by 25 degrees F.
Glass pans require 25 degree increase.

6. Older oven temperature shift.

As a cooking appliance gets older, sometimes the oven temperature gets hotter.

Oven temperature can be tested with a good quality oven thermometer. Allow 15 to 20 minutes without opening the oven door for an accurate oven temperature reading. Some ovens can be calibrated from the back of the knob. If you remove the oven temp knob and find two screws on the back, it can probably be calibrated on the knob.

Many newer ovens can be calibrated using the control board. See your owners manual for what keys to hit on your model to calibrate the digital display.

7. Altitude.

Bakingand cooking general takes longer at higher altitudes. Some homeowners, moving from low altitude cities may need to adjust to the extra several minutes it takes to bake in higher parts of the world. Much of northern Utah is over 4000 feet high, the level that calls for high altitude cooking.

My clothes take too long to dry

There are many variables that determine the amount of time it takes to dry a load of laundry. Most loads should dry in under an hour. Maytag estimates that six bath towels (about 5 pounds of cottons) will dry in about 40 to 50 minutes. 12 pieces of permanent press (slacks, shirts, shorts, dresses) weighing about 5 pounds will dry in 30-40 minutes, including a cool down (to reduce wrinkling). Front load washers using max-extract will generally reduce drying time by 5 to 10 minutes. As load size increases so does drying time.

Many things increase drying time. Most of them have to do with heat and airflow.

1. Overloading. One washer load is one dryer load.

2. Obstructions in exhaust duct, or long exhaust duct.

A dryer duct can be up to about 40 feet long. It must be 4 inch ducting the entire way. Every 90 degree turn counts as 5 feet. Every 45 degree turn counts as 2.5 feet. No two turns should be closer than two feet apart because that causes turbulence and increases drying time.
The vent cover on the outside of the home should allow the full 4 inches of air flow to escape. It should not be restricted by plants or snow. The cover should remain on the hood to avoid birds, wasps, and rodents from building nests inside the vent.
Use only rigid vent material. The plastic or corrugated vents collect lint faster.

3. Mixing loads

Avoid mixing heavy and light clothes in loads.
Avoid washing only one item like a small rug, add a few things to that load to balance the washer and improve how much water is extracted in spin.

4. Not cleaning the lint filter.

A clean lint filter is essential to good drying times.

5. Wrong temperature setting.

There is no heat during an air fluff cycle. Use the correct temperature setting for the materials being dried.

6. Washer not spinning properly

If the washer doesn't extract most of the water, the dryer will take longer to compensate.

7. Check dryer settings for extended cool down settings.

Your dryer may be air fluffing at the end of the cycle, which is good for permanent press fabrics but slows drying for cottons.